Top 10 Tips for Painting 3D Printed Resin Figures Like a Pro

There’s something magical about unboxing a freshly printed resin figure - detailed, weighty, and waiting for you to bring it to life with a brush. For hobby painters and collectors across Europe, and especially here in the Netherlands, painting resin garage kits or chibi figures isn’t just the last step. It’s the fun part. It’s the cozy, slightly nerdy ritual that turns a bare kit into a display piece you’re proud of. Whether you’re prepping your favourite anime hero, building a gaming diorama, or painting your very first kit, a beautiful finish comes down to prep, technique, and a healthy dose of enthusiasm.

At Remerlinds, every kit is made to order in the Netherlands on 16K Uniformation printers for crisp, clean detail, using premium Conjure Sculpt resin that’s durable and a joy to paint. We ship our kits unpainted on purpose - because the best part is yours. We also offer three finish levels (Bronze, Silver, and Gold) so you can start exactly where you want to. More on that in a moment.

Before you reach for your brushes, get inspired and browse our full collection of high-detail 3D printed resin figures. There’s something for every fandom and painting style.

First: Which Finish Level Did You Order?

This one matters, because it changes where your painting journey actually begins. Every Remerlinds kit arrives with supports already removed, washed, cured, and quality-checked - so no clipping required. What differs is how much prep we’ve done for you:

• 🥉 Bronze - Cleaned, cured, and ready for your prep. You’ll sand the support marks, fill any small gaps, and prime. Start at Step 1 and follow the whole guide.
• 🥈 Silver - Everything in Bronze, plus we sand the support marks and fill visible holes for you. Your kit is ready for primer, so you can skip most of the prep and jump to Step 3 (Priming).
• 🥇 Gold - Everything in Silver, plus we fill all gaps and prime the figure in your chosen colour (black, grey, or white). It arrives ready to paint - head straight to Step 4 (Base Coats).

Want the full breakdown? We wrote a whole post on it: Understanding Finish Levels: Bronze, Silver & Gold Explained. The tips below cover the complete journey from bare resin to sealed masterpiece - just start at the step that matches your kit.

What Makes Painting 3D Printed Resin Figures Unique?

Painting resin kits has its own special character that sets it apart from other modeling projects:

• Exceptional detail: Premium resin like the Conjure Sculpt blend we use captures crisp textures, sharp edges, and subtle curves you’ll rarely see in injection-molded or FDM models.
• Smooth surface: Resin prints show almost no visible layering, so painted surfaces look fluid and sculptural. Every brushstroke and colour choice is more noticeable - which is exactly why it’s so rewarding.
• Thoughtful prep pays off: Resin is less porous than other plastics, so a little care in the prep stage rewards you with a finish that stays put and looks crisp for years.

Because resin kits are all about quality and detail, a bit of patient preparation brings out their full potential.

Gathering Your Painting Tools & Materials

Before you start, set up your hobby space with the right tools and paints for resin figures:

• Paints:
  • Acrylic paints made for models are reliable for their smoothness, bright colours, and thin layering.
  • Airbrush paints, properly thinned, give professional blends and gradients.
  • Avoid thick or oil-based paints; these can obscure detail or fail to adhere well.
• Brushes and tools:
  • Fine-point brushes for eyes and tiny highlights.
  • Medium flat or round brushes for base coats and larger areas.
  • Airbrushes or sponges are great for advanced effects, but they aren’t necessary for beginners.
  • Makeup sponges apply mottled textures, while stippling or old drybrushes are perfect for weathering.
• Primer (for Bronze and Silver kits - Gold arrives pre-primed):
  • Use a model or miniature-specific primer formulated for resin.
  • Spray primers give even coverage on larger pieces; brush-on primers work well for smaller or detailed parts.
  • Choose your primer colour to match your plan: white for vivid colours, grey for a universal base, black for dark schemes or metallics.
• Sealers and varnishes:
  • Choose matte for realism, satin for a mild sheen, or gloss for eye-catching reflective effects.
  • Sealers protect against dust, sun, and handling.
• Safety and workspace setup:
  • Work in a well-ventilated area - especially with primers, sealers, and solvents.
  • Wear a mask when spraying, sanding, or using solvent-based paints.
  • Cover your workspace with paper or a reusable mat, and keep water jars or cleaning pots handy.

A tidy hobby desk and the right materials make every painting session safer and more enjoyable - your future masterpieces will thank you.

Step 1: Give Your Figure a Quick Once-Over (Bronze)

Good news: every Remerlinds kit arrives washed, cured, and inspected, so you’re not starting from a dirty print. A quick bit of care still helps your paint grip beautifully:

• Handle with clean, oil-free hands - fingerprints and skin oils are the main thing that can interfere with primer adhesion after shipping.
• If a piece has picked up dust in transit or from your workbench, a gentle rinse in warm, soapy water with a soft brush is plenty. No harsh solvents needed.
• If you do rinse, let every part air-dry fully on a towel or rack, and check crevices for hidden moisture before priming.

Clean, dry resin is the best base for sanding and painting - and with our kits, that’s usually just a light touch.

Step 2: Smoothing Support Marks and Seams Without Losing Detail (Bronze)

Your supports are already removed, but Bronze kits may show faint support marks or a subtle seam. Smart prep here preserves the sculptor’s hard work. (Silver and Gold buyers can skip ahead - we’ve done this for you.)

• Sand lightly with fine-grit tools (400–1000 grit sandpaper, sanding sticks, or hobby files). Work gently in a circular motion over any support marks or seams.
• For small gaps or air bubbles, press in a little modeler’s putty and sand smooth once it cures. Keep filing local to the affected area.
• Check your work often under a bright light from different angles. Avoid over-sanding: once surface detail is gone, it doesn’t come back.
• Remove all sanding dust before moving on. A soft brush or a puff of compressed air clears hidden particles from crevices and fine details.

For guidance on gap-filling, joining parts, and finishing multi-part kits, see our companion guide: Assembling & Finishing Your 3D Printed Resin Kit.

Step 3: Priming Your Resin Figure Properly (Bronze & Silver)

Think of priming as the anchor that lets colour stick and shine. If you ordered Gold, this is already done - skip to Step 4.

• Why prime? Resin surfaces are smooth and non-porous. Primer gives paint something to grip and ensures even colour across the model.
• Choosing primer colour:
  • White - boosts bright hues and makes vibrant schemes pop.
  • Grey - versatile for most paint jobs.
  • Black - deepens shadows and enhances metallic effects.
• Applying primer:
  • Spray in short, sweeping bursts from 15–20 cm away, rotating the figure for all-around coverage.
  • Apply several thin coats, letting each dry thoroughly to avoid texture buildup.
• Safety: Always prime near an open window or outside. Wear a mask when needed and follow the safety guidance on any aerosol or liquid you use.

A consistent primer layer is the best start for smooth, even painting.

Step 4: Applying Base Coats With Care (Everyone Starts Here)

This is where your figure comes alive - and where every finish level, right up to Gold, joins the party. Resist the urge to cover everything in one thick pass:

• Use thinned paints. A couple of drops of water or thinner help the paint flow evenly without drowning fine details.
• Paint in a logical order:
  • Start with the hard-to-reach spots (skin beneath armour, tucked-under cloth).
  • Move to large, open areas, then progressively to smaller details.
  • This prevents accidental smudging and overlap.
• Use the right brush for each surface: broad for flat areas, small for details.
• Let each coat dry before adding the next. When in doubt, wait longer - touching semi-dry paint can ruin the finish or leave prints.

Layer as many coats as needed for solid, smooth colour, keeping every detail crisp.

Step 5: Adding Depth with Shading, Highlights, and Details

Depth and personality come from clever use of shadows, highlights, and tiny accent lines:

• Washes: Dilute your paint into a thin wash, then flow it into recesses and carved lines. It creates natural shadow and brings out sculpted detail.
• Dry brushing: Load a brush with almost-dry, lighter paint and sweep gently across textured or raised areas - perfect for fabric folds, hair, or rough surfaces.
• Colour layering: Blend edges with a damp brush, building transitions from deep shadows to bright highlights.
• Detail focus:
  • Eyes and faces reward a steady hand and a very fine brush.
  • For metallics, start with a dark base, build up with metallic paints, then add a final gloss coat.
  • On cloth and armour, use sharp highlights or contrasting shadows for realism and impact.

Painting a whole army? If you’re working through a squad of chibi warriors or a tabletop force, washes and dry brushing are your best friends - they add depth across many models fast, so your army looks cohesive on the table without weeks at the desk. Batch your steps (all base coats, then all washes, then all highlights) and you’ll be fielding an adorably deadly force in no time.

This stage is your chance to make creative decisions that bring your kit to life.

Step 6: Sealing and Finishing Your Masterpiece

Seal your painted figure to protect it and control its final look:

• Choose your finish:
  • Matte for skin, fabric, and subtle, realistic surfaces.
  • Satin for a soft sheen on plastics or stylized figures.
  • Gloss for lenses, gems, or wet-look metallics.
• How to apply:
  • Spray sealers evenly from about 20 cm, using several light passes instead of one heavy one.
  • Brush-on sealers work for spot applications or finishing smaller parts without overspray risk.
• Let it cure: Place your figure in a dust-free spot to cure for at least 24 hours before final assembly or handling. Rushing can trap moisture or dust, or leave a sticky finish.
• Preserve the details: Always lean toward multiple thin layers over one thick coat - this keeps surface texture and sharp edges intact.

For extra depth, mix finish types: matte skin, satin cloth, glossy accessories.

Table: Choosing the Right Sealer Finish

Finish Type	Appearance	Best Uses	Considerations
Matte	Flat, non-reflective	Skin, cloth, realism	Can look chalky if applied too thick
Satin	Soft sheen	Leather, plastics, stylized elements	May reflect under direct light
Gloss	Shiny, reflective	Armour, gems, eyes, metallic or glass parts	Shows dust and fingerprints

A good sealer preserves your hours of painting for years to come.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Painting Resin Figures

Even experienced hobbyists slip up now and then. Here’s how to dodge the most frequent pitfalls:

• Painting over dusty or oily resin: Handle with clean hands and give dusty pieces a quick rinse so primer grips evenly.
• Over-sanding: Too much sanding quickly erases surface detail. Focus on specific spots and use only as much abrasion as needed.
• Paint applied too thickly: Heavy layers bury sculpted lines - thin coats reveal more depth and detail.
• Ignoring drying times: Handling parts before they’re fully dry leads to smudging, peeling, or unwanted texture.
• Wrong primer or sealant: Non-model primers and general-use sealers can react or leave surfaces tacky. Test on a spare piece if unsure.
• Rushing to assemble or handle: Putting your model together before paint and sealer cure risks chipping or sticking.
• A part missing or damaged in transit? It happens rarely, but if it does, get in touch with our support team and we’ll make it right so you can get back to your paint session.

Hobby painting is about learning and enjoying the process. Most slip-ups can be fixed with a little patience.

Quick Checklist for First-Time Hobby Painters

Keep this checklist nearby for a smooth, frustration-free session (start at the step that matches your finish level):

• Handle with clean hands; give dusty pieces a quick rinse and dry (Bronze).
• Lightly sand any support marks or seams - only as much as necessary (Bronze).
• Prime in light, even coats and let each layer dry (Bronze & Silver).
• Base-coat in multiple thin layers, working from largest to smallest areas (everyone).
• Layer shading, highlights, and details for maximum depth.
• Seal to protect your paint and set the final finish.
• Give every step enough drying time before moving on.

Take your time - most painting slips come from rushing or skipping steps.

FAQ: Painting 3D Printed Resin Figures

• Do Remerlinds kits arrive ready to paint?
  It depends on your finish level. Gold arrives primed and ready for colour. Bronze and Silver need priming first (and Bronze needs a little support-mark sanding). Every kit ships with supports removed, washed, and cured.
• Do I need to wash the figure before painting?
  Not usually - we wash and cure every kit before it ships. Just handle it with clean hands, and give it a quick rinse only if it’s picked up dust.
• Is priming always necessary?
  For Bronze and Silver, yes - it’s strongly recommended for adhesion and smoother colour. Gold kits are already primed.
• Which primer colour should I choose?
  White for bold, bright schemes; grey for flexibility; black for dramatic shadows and metallics.
• What’s the best paint type for resin miniatures?
  Acrylic paints made for models or miniatures are the best all-around choice. Airbrush paints and inks can create advanced effects.
• How many paint coats should I apply?
  Usually two to five - always thin, and let each layer dry.
• How do I keep paint from hiding sculpted details?
  Use thin layers, and lean on washes and dry brushing for texture. Thick paint buries fine lines.
• Matte, satin, or gloss varnish?
  It’s down to the look you want. Matte is lifelike, gloss is bold and reflective, satin sits in between.
• How long between paint layers?
  Anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on your paint and room conditions. Overnight is safest for the final cure.
• How do I fix brush marks or tacky paint?
  Let it fully dry, then gently smooth with ultra-fine grit and re-coat with thinner paint. Tackiness usually means too-thick paint or high humidity - wait until it’s fully cured.

Want more answers? We’ve covered plenty of frequently asked questions about our resin figure kits, from assembly to shipping.

Resin painting shines brightest where hobbyist care meets creativity. If you’d like to know the story and passion behind our kits, you can learn about Remerlinds and our love for quality resin.

For more painting tutorials, kit guides, and behind-the-scenes notes, check out our blog. We’d love to see what you make - tag us and share your painted creations.

A quick safety note: Everything here is informational and for hobby purposes. Always follow the safety instructions on your paints and solvents, and work in a well-ventilated space.

Happy painting - may your colours stay vibrant, your kits arrive safe, and your hobby desk always be a place of inspiration. ✨