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News July 14, 2026

Top 7 Tools Every Resin Figure Painter Needs

Seven hobby tools laid out in an arc, a fine brush, tweezers, a hobby knife, a sanding stick, a pin vice, a pair of nippers and an oval palette tray, with an unpainted grey chibi knight on a cork disc behind them

Top 7 Tools Every Resin Figure Painter Needs

There’s nothing quite like bringing a fresh 3D printed resin figure to life with your favourite paints and a healthy dose of nerdy pride. Whether you’re painting a pocket-sized chibi, a full-size anime or gaming figure, or an ambitious diorama, a great finish starts with honest prep and the right gear on the desk.

The good news for anyone painting made-to-order resin figure kits from Remerlinds: you don’t need a 3D printer or any casting equipment. Every kit is printed fresh in the Netherlands in premium Chitu Conjure Sculpt resin, a high-detail resin built for miniatures, then washed, cured, and quality-checked before it ships. What lands on your desk is a finished figure ready to prep and paint. So this list skips the workshop machinery and focuses on the tools that actually make painting easier, tested by people who obsess over tiny details just as much as you do.

1. Primer (Your Paint’s Best Friend)

Primer is the single most important thing between bare resin and a finish that lasts. Resin is smooth and non-porous, so primer gives your paint something to grip.

  • Spray or brush-on: Spray primers give fast, even coverage on larger figures; brush-on primers are handy for small parts and touch-ups.
  • Colour matters: White makes bright colours pop, grey is the flexible all-rounder, and black deepens shadows and suits metallics.
  • Who needs it: Bronze and Silver kits need priming. If you ordered Gold, your figure arrives already primed in your chosen colour, so you can skip straight to paint.

Thin, even coats are the trick, several light passes beat one heavy one every time.

2. A Good Brush Set

Stylized hands painting a chibi knight figure held on a cork painting handle, with a wet palette of pastel paints and fine brushes nearby

You don’t need a huge collection, just the right few in good condition:

  • A medium round brush for base coats and covering larger areas.
  • A fine detail brush (size 0 or smaller) for eyes, trim, and tiny highlights.
  • An old or cheap brush kept aside for dry brushing and rougher work, this technique wrecks good bristles, so don’t sacrifice your best one.

Look after them: rinse often, never let paint dry in the ferrule, and reshape the tip after cleaning. A well-kept mid-range brush outperforms a neglected expensive one.

Quick Brush Guide

Brush Best For Tip
Medium round Base coats, large areas Load lightly, build up in thin layers
Fine detail (0 or smaller) Eyes, trim, highlights Keep a sharp point; steady your hand on the base
Old / drybrush Textures, fabric, hair Wipe almost dry before sweeping over raised detail

3. Acrylic Paints and Washes

Acrylics made for models or miniatures are the reliable all-rounder: smooth, quick-drying, and easy to thin.

  • Base colours for the main areas of your figure.
  • Washes (shades) are the shortcut to depth, flow a thinned dark wash into recesses and it instantly brings out sculpted detail.
  • Thin your paint with a drop or two of water or medium so it flows without burying the fine detail this resin captures so well.

Avoid thick, craft-store, or oil-based paints, they hide the crisp detail you paid for.

4. Putty for Gap-Filling (Milliput and Green Stuff)

Multi-part figures sometimes leave a hairline gap or seam where pieces meet, and a good putty makes it disappear. Two classics cover almost everything:

  • Milliput is a two-part epoxy putty that’s brilliant for filling gaps. You can smooth it with a wet finger or tool before it sets, and once cured it sands down beautifully flush, ideal for seams you want to vanish completely.
  • Green stuff is more flexible and a touch tackier, so it shines for reshaping soft details or blending curved joins.

Press it into the gap, smooth it, let it cure, then sand flush before priming. A little goes a long way, and it’s the difference between “assembled” and “seamless.”

5. Sanding Sticks, Files, and a Hobby Knife

A little surface prep is what separates a good paint job from a great one. Your kit arrives with supports already removed, but Bronze kits may show faint support marks, and multi-part figures can have a subtle seam.

  • Sanding sponges are the secret weapon for figures, they flex to hug curved surfaces (arms, faces, drapery) so you smooth marks without flattening the shape. They also last a long time and can be rinsed and reused.
  • Fine-grit sanding sticks or sandpaper (400–1000 grit) handle flatter areas and edges, smoothing support marks and seams without erasing detail.
  • Needle files reach tight spots and clean up joints.
  • A sharp hobby knife or seam scraper shaves away any faint seam line in a single clean pass.
  • A dust mask is a must for this step, cured resin dust is fine and best kept out of your lungs. Wipe up dust with a damp paper towel rather than blowing it around.

Silver and Gold kits have this prep done for you, so you can move straight on.

6. Super Glue and a Pin Vice

For multi-part kits, these two handle assembly:

  • Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is the standard for bonding resin. Use small drops and dry-fit first.
  • A pin vice with a 2mm bit lets you pin heavier joints, adding a hidden rod so arms, weapons, and outstretched parts stay put.

Pair these with your putty (from tool 4) to fill any seams once parts are joined. Want the full walkthrough? See our step-by-step assembly guide on the Remerlinds blog.

7. Varnish (Seal the Deal)

A varnish coat protects all your hard work from dust, sun, and handling, and lets you control the final look:

  • Matte for realistic skin and fabric.
  • Satin for a soft sheen on stylised figures.
  • Gloss for eyes, gems, and wet-look accents.

Apply in several light passes, and for extra depth, mix finishes: matte skin, satin cloth, glossy accessories.

Bonus Tools: Nice-to-Have Extras

Not essential, but much-loved once you have them:

  • A wet palette keeps your acrylics workable for hours instead of minutes, which makes smooth blends and custom colours far easier. Buy one, or make your own with a shallow container, a sponge, and baking parchment.
  • A painting handle (or a cork, bottle, or blob of blu-tack) so you can turn the figure without touching wet paint.
  • A daylight hobby lamp for true colours and less eye strain, a real help through darker Northern European evenings.
  • A magnifier or head loupe for those tiny faces and fine trim.
  • Micro brushes for spot cleanup, precise glue, or applying washes into a single recess.

As you move from a quick chibi kit to a complex diorama, these will save you plenty of time and frustration.

Quick Checklist: Set Up Your Painting Session

  • [ ] Primer ready (Bronze and Silver kits)
  • [ ] Base and detail brushes clean and pointed
  • [ ] Acrylic paints and at least one wash
  • [ ] Putty for gap-filling (Milliput or green stuff)
  • [ ] Sanding sponges, sticks, files, and knife on hand (plus dust mask)
  • [ ] Super glue and pin vice for assembly
  • [ ] Varnish chosen for your final finish
  • [ ] Good light and a painting handle

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need any printing or casting equipment?
No. Your figure arrives printed, washed, and cured. You only need painting and prep tools, none of the resin-pouring or curing gear.

Do I have to prime before painting?
For Bronze and Silver, yes, primer helps paint stick and keeps colours true. Gold kits arrive already primed.

What paints work best on resin figures?
Acrylic paints made for models or miniatures. Add a wash or two for easy shading, and thin your paint so it doesn’t bury the detail.

How many brushes do I really need?
Three will get you a long way: a medium round for base coats, a fine detail brush, and an old brush for dry brushing.

Do I need to sand my figure?
Only Bronze kits need light sanding of support marks. Silver and Gold arrive smoothed for you.

What’s the best way to hold the figure while painting?
A painting handle, cork, or blob of blu-tack keeps your fingers off wet paint and makes reaching every angle easier.

For more on materials, finish levels, and shipping, see our FAQ about resin figure kits.

A Quick Safety Note

  • Wear a dust mask when sanding or filing cured resin, and work in a ventilated space when spraying primer or varnish.
  • Keep glue and sharp tools out of reach of children and pets.
  • Collect resin dust with damp paper towels and dispose of it with your household waste per local guidelines.
  • Wash your hands and tidy your workspace after each session.

Remerlinds supports painters at every step, choose Bronze, Silver, or Gold to match the prep you enjoy, and every kit ships with assembly instructions and packaging built for a safe journey. For real, human help with anything from painting tips to a damaged part, get in touch with our support team.

Final Note

This guide is for hobby and informational purposes. Always follow the instructions on your paints, primers, and varnishes.

For browsing and inspiration, explore our complete catalog of high-detail resin figures, featuring the NomNom Figures line, Bulkamancer sculpts, and more, each made with nerdy care in the Netherlands for collectors and painters across Europe. Have fun, and enjoy every brushstroke, your next masterpiece starts here. ✨