Step-by-Step Guide to Assembling Your First Resin Figure

Ready to turn your favourite anime, gaming, or movie character into a display-worthy resin figure? Assembling a 3D printed garage kit is a hands-on, deeply satisfying part of the hobby, whether you’re a painter itching to try new techniques or a collector after crisp, high-detail models. Every stage, from opening the box to setting the final piece in place, is a chance to put your own care and style into the build. At Remerlinds, each kit is printed fresh in the Netherlands and packed to survive the journey, so it arrives ready for the fun part.

New to resin kits? This guide walks you through assembling your first figure with beginner-friendly tips: safe handling, gluing, pinning, gap-filling, and blending seams, so a box of parts becomes a shelf-worthy collectible. It’s written specifically for Remerlinds’ Chitu Conjure Sculpt kits, a premium high-detail resin, so the advice matches exactly what lands on your desk.

Not sure where to begin? Browse our full range of resin figure kits for every fandom and skill level. If it’s your first build, small chibi kits are a perfect place to learn the basics.

If you get stuck at any point, we’re always happy to help, with real answers from actual hobbyists, not bots.

Before You Start: What’s Already Done for You

Here’s the good news that saves you a lot of mess. Every Remerlinds kit arrives with the supports already removed, washed, cured, and quality-checked. You don’t need isopropyl alcohol, a UV curing station, or any printing gear, that’s our job. What you do depends on the finish level you ordered:

• 🥉 Bronze - Cleaned and cured, ready for your prep. You’ll lightly sand any support marks, fill small gaps, and prime before painting.
• 🥈 Silver - Everything in Bronze, plus we sand the support marks and fill visible holes. It arrives ready to prime.
• 🥇 Gold - Everything in Silver, plus all gaps filled and the figure primed in your chosen colour. It arrives ready to paint.

Whichever tier you chose, multi-part kits still need assembling, and that’s what this guide is all about. For the full breakdown of what each finish includes, see Understanding Finish Levels: Bronze, Silver & Gold Explained.

Your Assembly Toolkit

A little prep makes the whole build smoother. Here’s what’s genuinely useful for putting a Remerlinds kit together:

• Super glue (cyanoacrylate, gel or liquid) - the workhorse for bonding resin parts
• A pin vice or hobby drill with a 2mm bit - for pinning stronger joints
• 2mm filament, paper clips, or wire - the pins themselves
• Green stuff or other epoxy putty - for filling any small gaps or seams
• Fine-grit sandpaper or sanding sticks - for smoothing support marks and seams (Bronze kits)
• A sharp hobby knife - for cleaning up stray glue or faint mould lines
• Tweezers - for placing the smallest details
• Nitrile gloves and paper towels - for tidy work with glue and putty
• A dust mask - for the sanding step

Lay out your kit’s parts before you begin so you know exactly what goes where. Not sure yet what to build? Our chibi figures make a friendly first project.

Safety, the Sensible Version

Your kit arrives fully cured, so there’s no liquid resin to worry about. A few common-sense habits still keep the build pleasant:

• Wear a dust mask when sanding, cured resin dust is fine and best not inhaled.
• Work in a ventilated spot when using super glue; the fumes can sting eyes and noses.
• Keep glue and sharp tools away from children and pets, and never touch your face with glue on your fingers.
• Drill and cut with slow, controlled pressure to avoid slips.
• Wipe down your workspace and wash your hands when you’re done.

Nothing here is scary, just the same care you’d take with any craft that involves glue and a blade.

Assembly Techniques: Gluing & Pinning

Done methodically, assembly makes your figure sturdy and display-worthy. The right glue, a few pins, and a touch of putty are all it takes.

Super Glue Best Practices

Super glue is the standard for resin, and a light touch makes all the difference:

• Dry-fit the parts first so you know they line up before any glue goes on.
• Use a fine tip or toothpick to apply a small drop to one surface only.
• Align the parts, press together, and hold steady (without squeezing) for 30–60 seconds.
• Wipe up any squeeze-out immediately with a clean tissue.
• Trim any dried stray glue carefully with a sharp blade.

Tweezers give you extra control on small or delicate pieces.

Pinning for Durability

Pinning adds a hidden metal or plastic rod between two parts, and it’s well worth it for heavy or outstretched pieces like arms, weapons, and capes:

• Test-fit the joint, then mark the same spot on both parts.
• Drill a 2mm hole about 5–10mm deep into each side, slowly and straight, without forcing it.
• Cut a length of 2mm filament or wire to bridge the gap.
• Dry-fit with the pin in place to check alignment.
• Add a dab of super glue to one hole, seat the pin, glue the other side, and press together.

If a pin fits loosely, a little green stuff around it locks everything in place.

Filling Gaps

Occasionally a seam or small gap appears where parts meet, easily fixed:

• Knead a little green stuff or epoxy putty and roll it into a thin worm.
• Press it into the gap and smooth it with a sculpting tool or a damp fingertip.
• Let it cure fully (usually 1–4 hours, check the product).
• Wet-sand flush with fine-grit paper before priming or painting.
• If a gap still shows after your first primer coat, repeat the fill-and-sand for a seamless finish.

Assembly Tools Table

Tool	Purpose	Best For	Tips
2mm drill / pin vice	Creating pin holes	Structural joints	Drill slowly and straight; no pressure
Super glue	Bonding parts	Most assembly points	Use the smallest amount needed
Green stuff	Gap filling	Seams and small gaps	Let it cure fully, then sand smooth
Filament / wire pin	Reinforcing joints	Arms, legs, heavy parts	Always dry-fit before gluing
Hobby knife	Cleaning up	Glue, faint mould lines	A fresh blade cuts cleaner
Fine sandpaper	Smoothing surfaces	Seams, support marks	Wet-sand to keep dust down

Priming & Painting: The Short Version

Once assembled (or before final assembly, if you want to reach tricky spots), it’s time for colour. Bronze and Silver kits need priming first; Gold arrives primed and ready to paint.

• Prime in light, even coats and let each dry, this gives paint something to grip.
• Build colour in thin layers rather than one thick pass, so you don’t bury the fine detail.
• Seal the finished figure with a varnish to protect it, matte for realism, gloss for eyes and wet-look accents.

Painting is a whole craft of its own, so we’ve given it a dedicated walkthrough. Head to our painting guide on the Remerlinds blog for the full step-by-step on priming, base coats, shading, and sealing.

Final Assembly & Seam Blending

Many builders paint sub-assemblies first, then bring everything together at the end:

• Attach the smallest, most fragile pieces last (hair, weapons, accessories).
• Blend any remaining seams with a little putty and gentle sanding after assembly.
• Touch up paint once the full figure is together.
• Always dry-fit before gluing, once it’s set, repositioning is tricky.

Troubleshooting & Common Pitfalls

Every builder hits the odd snag. A little patience solves most of them.

Preventing Breakage

High-detail resin is strong but can be brittle at thin points, so:

• Handle delicate parts (fingers, swords, staffs) gently and by the base or body.
• Never force a joint, if it resists, check the fit rather than pushing harder.
• Work from the largest assemblies down to the smallest to reduce accidental knocks.

If something does snap, it’s rarely the end of the world: re-glue, add a pin if the join needs strength, and fill any gap with putty. A fine sculpting tool can rebuild small chipped details.

Misalignment & Glue Squeeze-Out

• If glue leaks out as it sets, blot gently with a tissue or scrape it away once dry with a sharp blade.
• For dried glue on a painted area, sand extremely lightly and touch up the paint.
• Dry-fitting before every glue-up is the single best way to avoid misalignment in the first place.

Want more advanced tricks, like keying joints and working with Milliput? Our companion post goes deeper: Assembling & Finishing Your 3D Printed Resin Kit.

FAQ: Quick Answers for Beginners

Do I need to wash or cure my kit before building?
No. Every Remerlinds kit arrives washed, cured, and with supports already removed. You can go straight to prep and assembly.

Do I need to remove supports?
No, we do that for you on every finish level. Bronze kits may show faint support marks you can lightly sand; Silver and Gold have those smoothed already.

What glue works best for resin figures?
Super glue (cyanoacrylate). Use very small drops and dry-fit first.

How do I fix a gap between assembled parts?
Sculpt in a little green stuff or epoxy putty, let it cure, then sand smooth and prime.

What drill bit size should I use for pinning?
For Remerlinds figures, 2mm suits most joints.

Can I reposition a part after gluing?
It’s much easier to get it right first with a dry-fit. Fresh super glue can sometimes be eased apart, but prevention beats correction here.

Do I need to prime before painting?
For Bronze and Silver, yes, primer helps paint stick and keeps colours true. Gold kits arrive already primed.

Can epoxy putty replace green stuff?
Yes, either works well for filling and sculpting small details.

Still have questions? Browse our full FAQ about resin figure kits.

A Quick Safety Note

• Wear a dust mask when sanding and work in a ventilated space when gluing.
• Drill and cut with steady, controlled pressure to avoid slips.
• Keep glue and sharp tools out of reach of children and pets.
• This guide is informational and based on typical Remerlinds kits; if you’re unsure, test on a spare part or hidden area first.

Received your kit with shipping damage, or hit a tricky spot? Get in touch with our support team, help is quick and personal.

Curious about the nerdy attention to detail behind every kit we ship? Learn more about Remerlinds and join a growing community of collectors and painters across Europe. Happy building! ✨