Magnetising Resin Miniatures: Plan the Joint First

Magnetising a resin miniature makes a connection removable by adding a magnetic attachment. The difficult part is deciding whether the joint can accommodate that change. A magnet that fits inside a hole is not automatically a sound solution for the figure.

This guide is for an adult hobby builder considering a modification to a character kit. Three things matter: the available material, the direction in which the component loads the connection and how you will separate it later. Those details matter more than a magnet size chosen from the figure's nominal scale.

Remerlinds makes unpainted resin figure kits in the Netherlands. Magnetising is optional work you plan after delivery, not a standard feature implied by the catalogue; the section on choosing a kit explains what to confirm first.

Give the removable connection a clear job

Start by writing down why the part needs to come off. A removable base connection for storage, an alternate accessory and a component left separate for painting are different requirements. The simplest satisfactory arrangement may not need magnets.

If the only aim is brush access, consider painting subassemblies and then making a permanent joint. If the aim is transport, compare a removable connection with supporting the complete figure appropriately. Adding another loose component creates its own handling and storage work.

Choose one candidate joint rather than planning to magnetise every part. Describe how often you expect to separate it and where your fingers can grip it. A tiny accessory that can only be pulled by a fragile tip is a poor starting point, even if there appears to be room behind it.

Do not treat magnetising as a repair for an unexplained bad fit. Confirm the intended orientation and contact surfaces first. The existing joint must make sense before you decide which part of its geometry can be modified.

Keep a permanent assembly option available while you assess the idea. A useful decision can be to leave the original connection intact. The purpose of this planning stage is to avoid removing material before you know what the modified joint needs to do.

Inspect the actual resin around the joint

Examine both sides of the proposed connection and identify the material that would remain around a recess. Outer dimensions alone do not reveal internal wall thickness. A broad-looking surface may conceal a cavity or sit close to a delicate sculpted edge.

Use the parts diagram and the actual components together. Check for an existing locating feature and ask what it contributes to orientation. Removing it to make room for a magnet may also remove the feature that prevented rotation.

Consider the entry and exit directions for any tool before choosing a diameter. You need controlled access, a stable way to support the part and a way to judge depth. If those conditions are unclear, stop at inspection and ask the workshop about the component.

Do not borrow a magnet dimension from another figure simply because both are described as 75 mm. Pose, part thickness and leverage vary. A 1/8 scale label is not a drilling specification either. Neither label establishes that a particular recess is safe.

Photograph the proposed joint from the front and side when asking for advice. State the intended removable part and whether it is already painted. Avoid asking only which magnet to buy; the more important question may be whether the joint should be modified at all.

Keep a sketch showing the intended location and the surrounding edges. It need not be a technical drawing. Mark the places you cannot inspect and treat those as unknowns, not as empty space available for drilling.

Separate holding force from fit and alignment

A magnet's advertised pull value is measured under particular conditions. It is not a direct weight allowance for a resin arm or accessory. The joint's orientation and contact arrangement still need their own assessment.

Magnet supplier guidance identifies the gap, counterpart material, load direction and surface condition as factors affecting attachment. Paint or adhesive between the faces can change that relationship. Use the supplier's rating as product information, then test the actual arrangement rather than converting it into a promise for the kit.

Look at how the component tries to move. A part hanging straight away from a connection differs from one that can slide or rotate. A long accessory also gives your hand a long lever during removal. A connection that seems strong in one direction may be awkward in another.

Preserve useful locating geometry where possible. A broad mating shape can establish the pose while the magnetic attachment provides retention. Do not expect a single round disc to solve orientation by itself.

Think about the separation method before increasing attraction. You should be able to support both robust sections and separate the intended joint without bending a thin limb. Stronger attraction is not automatically better if the only available grip puts the sculpt at risk.

Write three separate requirements on the plan: the parts align, the part stays where intended and the part can be removed in a controlled way. Passing one does not prove the other two. This distinction is the core of a useful magnetising test.

Key takeaways

• Use the actual joint, not the scale label, to plan space.
• Assess alignment separately from magnetic attraction.
• Plan removal before choosing a stronger magnet.

Choose magnets and counterparts deliberately

Choose an intact manufactured magnet that suits the planned space and application. Check its dimensions, coating, magnetisation direction and supplier instructions. Do not drill, cut or sand a magnet to make it fit the kit.

Neodymium magnets are brittle, and damaging their coating can expose material to corrosion. Machining also creates additional hazards. For this hobby workflow, treat the purchased magnet as a finished component. If it does not suit the recess you can safely provide, reconsider the design.

A second magnet and a suitable ferromagnetic counterpart are different arrangements. Do not assume any metal disc will attract the magnet; common metals differ. Verify the counterpart and test the pair before considering installation.

Keep the exact product details with the project notes. Two discs of the same diameter may have different thicknesses, coatings or grades. A later replacement should not depend on remembering that you bought a little silver magnet.

Use a spare practice assembly to learn the proposed arrangement first. Match the relevant gap and orientation as closely as practical. A successful experiment on two flat objects does not prove a narrow resin wrist is suitable, but a failed experiment can prevent an unnecessary modification.

Do not assign a universal extra clearance to the drill size. The fit depends on the measured component, tools, adhesive requirements and the material left around it. If you cannot control that fit on a practice piece, the actual figure should wait.

Establish polarity before adhesive

Check which faces attract while the magnets are still separate from the figure. Keep that orientation traceable throughout the work. A correct dry test is more useful than trying to remove an installed magnet that faces the wrong way.

Work with one pair at a time and store the remaining magnets away from the immediate work area. Keep the chosen pair in separate compartments after checking it. An organised tray prevents the project from becoming a pile of indistinguishable discs.

Record the intended outward face using a method compatible with the magnet and adhesive instructions. A simple labelled sketch and a consistent reference magnet can help you preserve orientation without putting an unknown substance on the bonding surface.

Before installation, repeat the attraction check in the same relationship the parts will have on the figure. Do this gently and prevent the magnets from snapping together. Confirm that you have not reversed one component while turning it over to work on its underside.

Check the second side again immediately before its adhesive step. Do not rely only on the first note or on the orientation of a loose stack. Keep the figure parts supported so the attraction cannot unexpectedly pull a component across the desk.

If a polarity error is discovered after bonding, stop. Do not pry against a thin resin wall or try to drill through the magnet. Ask for an appropriate removal or redesign plan based on the actual adhesive and component. A forced correction can destroy more than the magnetic connection.

Treat installation as a controlled modification

Proceed only when the geometry, tooling and support are understood. Any recess should be prepared without the magnet in place, with a controlled depth and the part secured appropriately. Follow the tool and material precautions for the work you are doing.

This guide does not provide a universal drilling depth or a size chart for every kit. For the drilling operation itself, use a suitable hand tool and a method you can control on the actual component. Keep fingers clear of the tool path and stop if you cannot see or establish where the hole would go.

After preparing a suitable recess, inspect it and perform a gentle fit check. The magnet should not need to be hammered or forced into the resin. Do not push it deep into a blind hole during a test if you have no controlled way to retrieve it.

Select an adhesive that the maker confirms is compatible with the resin and the magnet's coating. Cyanoacrylate and two-part epoxy are product families, not interchangeable recipes. Check mixing where relevant, application thickness, working time and full cure. Do not assume one family always produces the stronger result in every joint.

Keep adhesive away from surfaces that must remain separate. Follow the successful practice arrangement and apply only the amount required by the adhesive instructions. Excess material can change the fit or bridge a connection that was meant to be removable.

Support the parts independently while the bond cures. Do not let the opposing magnet pull an uncured installation out of its recess. Do not accelerate curing with heat; follow the stated conditions for the adhesive and the magnet.

Test the finished connection without risking the figure

Wait for the adhesive's specified cure before testing retention. Hold the assembly low over a clear, protected work surface and support the component with your other hand. A controlled check should not become a drop test.

First confirm alignment. Then assess whether the part stays in the intended pose during ordinary careful handling. Finally, practise the planned separation movement while gripping robust areas. Stop if the resin flexes, a bond moves or the part twists into nearby detail.

Check again after any paint or finish that affects the contact arrangement. Do not automatically scrape a magnet's protective coating to regain attraction. Identify which layer or gap changed and reassess the design.

A removable accessory should still have its own storage position. Keep it supported and separated from other loose magnetic parts. During transport, do not rely on attraction alone to keep a delicate assembled figure safe. The packaging must also control movement and protect detail.

If the connection is unreliable, avoid escalating directly to a bigger recess and stronger magnet. Revisit alignment, gap, load direction and the reason for the modification. A permanent joint or a different storage plan may be the better outcome.

Key takeaways

• Verify polarity again before the second adhesive step.
• Allow the specified cure before testing.
• Stop if removal stresses the resin.

Keep small magnets under control

Store loose magnets securely away from children and pets. They are not toys. Small magnets pose a serious swallowing hazard, so account for each one before clearing the work area and seek urgent medical advice if swallowing is suspected.

Prevent magnets from colliding and do not use a chipped or damaged one in the project. Follow the supplier's precautions for handling, nearby equipment and medical implants. Use the relevant device manufacturer's guidance rather than assuming that a small hobby magnet is harmless at every distance.

Keep the remaining magnets in suitable separated storage with their product details. Do not leave a loose stack beside the model where tools or other components can be drawn toward it unexpectedly. The project is easier to manage when only the pair being assessed is on the bench.

Choose a kit for the build you actually want

Remerlinds character figures are supplied unpainted. The current FAQ notes that figure and chibi parts are not designed as a general interchangeable system. Treat a magnetic conversion as a modification to assess, not as a catalogue promise.

Browse the anime figure kits for the sculpt and pose you want, then ask about the relevant joint if removability is important. Listing images do not establish internal wall thickness or a safe magnet location.

The finish option also matters to your sequence. Plan significant modification before decorative painting where practical, and discuss uncertainties before altering a prepared part. The FAQ explains the current preparation options and how to contact the workshop.

Recommended reading and your next step

Put the proposed pair of parts beside the reference view and write down the job of the removable connection. If you cannot identify a safe location, an alignment method and a controlled removal grip, keep the original joint intact while you ask for advice.

• Dry fitting resin figures helps you establish the original relationship before modifying it.
• Pinning resin figures covers a different approach to structural reinforcement.
• Preparing a resin kit puts optional modification into the wider painting sequence.