Airbrush PSI for Miniatures: Pressure by Task
Most miniature painters start an airbrush at about 15 to 25 PSI. That is roughly 1.0 to 1.7 bar, the unit most Dutch compressor gauges show. Primer and thick paint sit at the higher end. Glazes, fine lines and thin washes sit at the lower end. The exact number depends on paint, thinning and nozzle, so every setup needs a short test before the figure is touched.
This guide covers starting pressures by task, primer pressure, nozzle size, thinning, compressor basics and common faults. It also covers pressure on display-scale resin figures: 75mm, 1/8 to 1/12 and chibis.
Table of Contents
- TL;DR
- PSI and bar: converting for a Dutch setup
- Why one number does not exist
- Starting pressures by task
- Primer pressure on resin figures
- Nozzle size and pressure
- Thinning: the other half of the number
- Compressor basics
- Pressure problems and fixes
- A test routine before every session
- Pressure on 75mm figures, 1/8 to 1/12 scale and chibis
- Drying and handling resin after spraying
- Perspective: what we see on resin kits
- Kits to practice on
- FAQ
- Sources
TL;DR
✦ Start at about 20 PSI (1.4 bar) for basecoats and primer. Adjust in small steps.
✦ Go lower, about 10 to 15 PSI (0.7 to 1.0 bar), for glazes, shading and fine lines.
✦ Pressure works together with paint thickness, thinning and nozzle size. One number never fits every job.
✦ Test on card before every session. Spray from a distance first, then move closer.
✦ Resin figure kits arrive unpainted and ready for primer. Keep primer coats light and let them dry away from heat and direct sun.
PSI and bar: converting for a Dutch setup
Airbrush guides written in English use PSI. Dutch and German compressors, regulators and gauges mostly use bar. The conversion is simple: 1 bar is about 14.5 PSI.
| PSI | Bar (approx.) | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 10 | 0.7 | Fine lines, thin glazes |
| 15 | 1.0 | Detail, soft shading |
| 20 | 1.4 | General starting point |
| 25 | 1.7 | Basecoats, primer |
| 30 | 2.1 | Thick paint, large areas |
| 40 | 2.8 | Rarely needed for minis |
Many gauges are not accurate at the low end. A gauge that reads 1.0 bar may behave differently from another brand at the same reading. The number is a reference point, not a guarantee. The spray pattern on a test card is the real measurement.
A regulator with a water trap is useful for a Dutch home workshop. Humid air can push moisture into the line. Spitting and sudden blobs are often caused by that, not by pressure.
Why one number does not exist
Pressure is one part of a trio:
✦ Paint: brand, pigment, thickness
✦ Thinning: how much thinner or medium is added
✦ Pressure: how hard the air pushes the paint out
Change one and the other two shift. Thicker paint needs more pressure to atomize. Thinner paint needs less, and too much pressure on thin paint dries it in the air and leaves a dusty, rough surface. Pressure also depends on the distance between the nozzle and the surface.
Forum threads give a wide spread, from 15 to over 40 PSI. Both ends can be right for different setups. Higher numbers usually come from airbrushes built for automotive or large work, or from thick paint. For miniatures with thin acrylics, the lower and middle range is the normal place to start.
Starting pressures by task
These are starting points, not rules. Test each one on card first.
Basecoats and general coverage
✦ Start: 20 to 25 PSI (1.4 to 1.7 bar)
✦ Paint thinned to the consistency of milk
✦ Several light passes, not one wet pass
The goal is an even, smooth layer. If the surface looks grainy, the paint is drying before it lands. Move closer, lower the pressure or thin a little more.
Primer
✦ Start: 20 to 25 PSI (1.4 to 1.7 bar)
✦ Larger nozzle helps, see below
✦ Thin coats, 15 to 20 cm from the surface
Primer is usually thicker than regular paint. It needs a little more pressure. Too much pressure blows primer into recesses unevenly and can leave a rough texture. Too little causes spitting. More on resin figures below.
Zenithal highlights and soft transitions
✦ Start: 15 to 20 PSI (1.0 to 1.4 bar)
✦ Keep the nozzle a little further back
✦ Build the effect in layers
Low pressure gives better control over where the paint lands. High pressure scatters it.
Glazes, shading and blending
✦ Start: 10 to 15 PSI (0.7 to 1.0 bar)
✦ Thin paint, small amount in the cup
✦ Short, controlled bursts
Glazes are transparent layers. They need a soft, fine mist. At this pressure, a gentle trigger pull matters more than usual.
Fine lines and small details
✦ Start: 10 to 15 PSI (0.7 to 1.0 bar)
✦ Close to the surface, 2 to 5 cm
✦ Smaller nozzle if available
Fine lines are the hardest airbrush task. Many painters switch to a brush for microdetail. The guide on microdetail painting for resin figures covers when the brush is the better tool.
Primer pressure on resin figures
Kits from Remerlinds arrive unpainted, with supports removed, washed and UV cured. They are ready for primer. The surface is smooth and holds fine detail, so primer should be applied lightly to keep that detail visible.
A workable approach:
✦ Start at 20 PSI (1.4 bar) with airbrush primer
✦ Spray a test card, then a scrap area
✦ Apply a light mist coat first
✦ Add a second coat after the first is touch dry
✦ Stop when the color is even and the detail is still sharp
Three things go wrong most often:
✦ Pressure too high: rough, sandy finish, primer blown into recesses
✦ Pressure too low: spitting, blobs, uneven coverage
✦ Too much primer at once: softened edges on fine detail
Primer that goes on too thick hides detail that cannot be brought back easily. If that happens, the guide on removing primer from miniatures without losing detail covers the options. Before priming, the guide on preparing resin models for primer lists what to check on the surface.
Raking light shows layer lines before they are locked under paint. See catching layer lines before primer with raking light. The 16K print resolution on the kits keeps those lines fine, but a check under angled light still takes only a minute.
Nozzle size and pressure
Nozzle size changes how much paint passes through and how much air is needed to move it.
| Nozzle | Use | Pressure tendency |
|---|---|---|
| 0.15 to 0.2 mm | Fine detail, thin paint | Lower, tolerant of little error |
| 0.3 to 0.35 mm | General miniature work | Middle range, forgiving |
| 0.4 to 0.5 mm | Primer, large areas | Middle to higher |
A Dutch beginner guide to airbrushing for modelling recommends a double-action, gravity-fed airbrush with a 0.3 to 0.35 mm nozzle as the best balance of detail control and easy cleaning. That size copes with primer and with most basecoats, and it is less prone to clogging than a very fine nozzle.
A 0.2 mm nozzle gives finer control but clogs sooner with thick paint. A 0.4 mm nozzle sprays primer faster but is harder to control on detail. Display figures at 1/8 to 1/12 scale have enough surface area that a 0.3 to 0.35 mm nozzle handles most of the work.
Thinning: the other half of the number
Pressure and thinning are linked. A common mistake is to raise pressure to push thick paint, when thinning would fix the problem at a lower pressure.
Signs of paint that is too thick:
✦ Spitting at the nozzle tip
✦ Grainy, orange-peel texture
✦ Paint building up on the needle tip
Signs of paint that is too thin:
✦ Runs on the surface
✦ Weak, transparent coverage
✦ Pooling in recesses
Some paint lines are made for airbrushing and can be sprayed with little or no thinner. Others need thinning, often with the manufacturer’s own thinner or airbrush medium. Product pages usually give a ratio. That ratio is a start. Test on card, then adjust.
Keep changes small. Add thinner in small amounts, stir, test again. Change only one thing at a time, so the cause of any change is clear.
Compressor basics
A hobby airbrush compressor is built for low pressure. Standard workshop compressors push far more air than an airbrush needs.
Features that matter for miniatures:
✦ Adjustable regulator, so pressure can be set and held
✦ Pressure gauge, even if approximate
✦ Water trap, useful in humid conditions
✦ Air tank, for steadier flow on long sessions
✦ Low noise, if the workshop is at home
A compressor with a tank gives smoother air and fewer pulses. A tankless one is cheaper and lighter and works for short sessions. For primer on several figures in one session, a tank helps.
Most miniature work stays well under 2 bar. A compressor that can reach 4 bar has plenty of headroom. Headroom is only useful if the regulator is accurate at the low end, because most work happens between 0.7 and 1.7 bar.
A full list of tools for a home workshop is in the miniature painting set up guide. It covers lighting, ventilation and other basics next to the airbrush.
Pressure problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Spitting | Paint too thick, pressure too low, dirty nozzle | Thin slightly, raise pressure by 2 to 3 PSI, clean the nozzle |
| Dusty, rough finish | Pressure too high, nozzle too far away | Lower pressure, move closer |
| Paint pooling or running | Pressure too low, too close, too wet | Raise pressure slightly, move back, lighter passes |
| Tip dry build-up | Paint drying at the tip | Thin or add a little retarder, lower pressure |
| Pulsing spray | Tankless compressor, moisture in the line | Check the water trap, consider a tank |
| Blown-out detail | Pressure too high in recesses | Lower pressure, spray at an angle |
Change one variable at a time. Raising pressure, thinning and moving the airbrush all at once makes the cause impossible to find.
Masking adds its own pressure concern. High pressure can push paint under the edge of the mask. Lower pressure and light coats help. The guide on airbrush masking for resin figure kits covers this.
A test routine before every session
The same short routine each time keeps results consistent.
- Set the compressor to the starting pressure for the task.
- Fill the cup with a small amount of thinned paint.
- Spray a line on a white card from about 10 cm.
- Check the pattern. Even and fine is the goal. Spits and dust mean an adjustment.
- Adjust pressure by 2 to 3 PSI, or 0.15 to 0.2 bar.
- Spray again. Repeat until the pattern is right.
- Test on a spare surface before the figure.
Write the settings down. A note with paint, thinning ratio, nozzle and pressure saves time the next session. After a few figures, a personal reference list replaces most guesswork.
A wet palette helps keep paint consistent between sessions. See wet palette for miniatures: setup and paint control for how it works with thinned paint.
Pressure on 75mm figures, 1/8 to 1/12 scale and chibis
Display-scale resin figures are larger than tabletop miniatures. That changes the pressure approach a little.
75mm figures
Larger surfaces take basecoats in fewer passes. 20 to 25 PSI (1.4 to 1.7 bar) works for basecoats. Drop to 10 to 15 PSI (0.7 to 1.0 bar) for faces, hands and small areas.
1/8 to 1/12 scale figures
These have large cloaks, hair and clothing areas. A slightly higher pressure and a 0.3 to 0.4 mm nozzle cover them faster. Smooth gradients on large surfaces need steady movement and light coats. Low pressure still suits glazes and shading.
Chibis
Chibis have large heads, smooth surfaces and simple shapes. They suit airbrushed gradients well. Use low pressure for soft color transitions on cheeks, hair and clothing. Large, smooth areas show uneven spray and texture quickly, so thin coats matter.
Assemblies
Multi-part figures are often painted in parts, then assembled. Consistent pressure and thinning across parts help avoid color mismatch. The subassemblies checklist for 75mm figures covers keeping color consistent between parts. For brushwork after the airbrush base, see 7 painting techniques for resin miniatures.
Drying and handling resin after spraying
Resin reacts to its environment, and drying is part of the process.
✦ Heat warps resin. Do not use a hot hair dryer or place a figure on a radiator.
✦ UV yellows resin. Do not leave a primed or painted figure in direct sun.
✦ Dry at room temperature, in a dust-free spot.
✦ Allow each coat to dry before the next.
✦ Handle by a non-painted area or use a holder.
Thin coats dry faster and give better results than thick coats pushed with heat. Patience is the cheapest tool in the workshop.
Perspective: what we see on resin kits
We sell unpainted resin figure kits, made to order in the Netherlands. Painters who buy them are mostly working at display scale: 75mm, 1/8 to 1/12 and chibis. The airbrush questions we see are rarely about the highest or lowest pressure. They are about restraint.
Our advice is plain. Start at 20 PSI. Test on card. Thin coats. Lower the pressure for detail. Check the figure under raking light before primer. The prints are made at 16K resolution and hand-checked, so the detail is there. Heavy primer is the fastest way to lose it.
We also see that a good airbrush setup is not required. Many painters finish kits with brushes alone. An airbrush saves time on large areas and gives smooth gradients, but it is a choice, not a rule.
— Nyx
Kits to practice on
Smooth, large surfaces are the best way to learn pressure control. Remerlinds kits arrive unpainted and ready for primer.
✦ Anime Resin Figure Kits: clothing and hair for gradients
✦ Premium Chibi Figure Kits: large, smooth shapes for soft transitions
✦ Fantasy & Tabletop Resin Figure Kits: armor and cloth
✦ Gaming Resin Figure Kits: varied surfaces for primer practice
A single figure from Shampoo, Ranma 1/2, 1/8 gives hair, clothing and skin on one model. Sculpts are unofficial fan art by independent sculptors. Every kit is made to order. Shipping covers the European Union, and exceptionally countries outside it.
FAQ
How much psi for airbrushing minis?
Most painters start at about 20 PSI (1.4 bar) and adjust from there. Basecoats and primer often sit at 20 to 25 PSI. Glazes and fine detail often sit at 10 to 15 PSI. A test card shows the right setting for the paint and nozzle in use.
What psi is right for primer?
About 20 to 25 PSI (1.4 to 1.7 bar) is a good start. Primer is thicker than regular paint, so it needs slightly more pressure. Apply light coats and stop when the color is even. Heavy coats hide detail.
Does the airbrush brand change the psi?
Sometimes. Some airbrushes are designed to atomize well at low pressure, and others perform better at higher pressure. The manufacturer’s guidance is a good first reference. Paint, thinning and nozzle size still change the result more than the brand.
Can a compressor give too much pressure?
Yes, if it has no regulator. Workshop compressors push far more air than an airbrush needs and can damage the airbrush or ruin a paint job. A hobby airbrush compressor with an adjustable regulator keeps the pressure within a safe range.
Sources
This guide draws on the Remerlinds guides linked in the sections above:
✦ Miniature painting set up: 10 essentials for 2026
✦ Removing primer from miniatures without losing detail
✦ Prepare resin models for primer
✦ Airbrush masking for resin figure kits
